Match of the week

Fried oysters with harissa and a Virgin Mary
There were some good, if familiar, wine pairings last week - including Muscadet with moules and clams marinières at The Pony at Chew Valley in Somerset (good to be reminded how reliable a match that is). But the one I’m going for is this combination of crispy fried oysters with harissa and coriander and a Virgin Mary which, as I’m sure you know, is an alcohol-free version of a Bloody Mary which I had at brunch at No. 1 York Place in Clifton, Bristol.
Spicy harissa with spicy tomato juice - is that too much? Turns out not. The tomato juice was really well spiced so echoed rather than being overwhelmed by the harissa. It just seemed like an extra dimension of chilli rather than being overwhelmingly hot.
If you want to try this for yourself there’s a recipe for fried oysters on the Great British Chefs website and a recipe for a Virgin Mary here.
You could obviously sneak in a shot of vodka!
PS I reckon the pairing would also work with freshly shucked oysters served with Tabasco.
For other oyster matches see The best wine (and other) pairings with oysters

Oscietra caviar and Galvin at Windows’ White Snapper
Last week was (highly unusually) a big week for caviar - and caviar substitutes which I ate on two successive nights paired with everything from vodka to beer. Decadent or what?
But it was this original and delicious cocktail - an inventive twist on the classic Bloody Mary - by the bar team at Galvin at Windows ‘caviar in the sky’ event that really stood out for me.
Apparently it was made with Bulldog gin, various (unspecified) spices and clarified tomato juice which gave it a delicate but not overpowering tomato flavour - and, as you can see, was very prettily garnished with a dried slice of lime.
We tried a whole range of caviars with it (from King’s Fine Food who sell online if you’re minded to repeat the experiment) and it pretty well sailed through them all except the denser, saltier, pressed caviar. The oscietra was my favourite though.
Fred Sirieix at Galvin at Windows is planning a caviar dinner on the strength of the tasting. Some of the prepared caviar dishes we tried from head chef Joo Won which included scallop tartare with lime zest and juice, olive oil, lychee, orange, borage flower, coriander cress and oscietra and crispy quail egg, charred baby leeks, cep cream and ceps with Siberian caviar were amazing. I’ll be writing more about the other pairings in due course.
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